THE third largest island in the Mediterranean , Cyprus has been occupied by a succession of peoples from Europe and Asia who sought its wealth of minerals and timber.

In the 8th century BC it was within the Assyrian empire , then the Babylonian Egyptian and Persian. In 58 BC the island was seized by the Romans as part of Ptolemy`s Egyptian empire.

Richard the Lionheart settled on the island in 1191 during the third Crusade and after selling it to the Knights Templar permitted Guy de Lusignan who had lost his kingdom of Jerusalem , to buy the island. Cyprus remained in Lusignan possession until captured by the Venetians in 1489.

From 1571 to 1878 it was ruled by the Ottomans until they leased its administration to Britain. Independence was granted in 1960 but after a Greek military coup in 1974. Turkey was forced to intervene to safeguard the interests of the Turkish Cypriots on the island. Partition followed and the administration of North Cyprus was subsequently proclaimed.

One Island: Two Communities

Under British Rule , the island saw a lot of communal strife between the Turkish and Greek Cypriots who were the cohabitants of the island. Finally in 1960 after long negotiations both in London and Zurich the island gained its independence as a Republic State.

The sharing of power did not stop the disagreement between the two communities. An armed conflict erupted in December 1963 by the Greek Cypriots that brought on the division of the island in a series of events , the most important of which took place in 1974 . Then the supporters of Enosis (the union of the island with Greece) aided and abetted the Greek Army elements toppled Makarios in an attempt to unify Cyprus with Greece. Turkey reacted and within one week using its rights under the Treaty of Guarantee sent its forces to crush the insurgency and secure the safety of the Turkish Cypriots . Hence the division of the island.

Now the Greek Cypriots occupy the Southern part of the island , and the Turkish Cypriots the Northern part. Negotiations have been carried out under the auspices of the UN and the UN Secretary General is personally supervising the negotiations through his representatives .

The object of the said negotiations is to establish the grounds for an overall settlement that will safeguard the interests of both communities.

G I R  N  E   ( K  Y  R  E  N  I  A )  

IS a fascinating town on the Northern coast of Cyprus, founded by the Myceans ca. 1600 BC. Kyrenia is famous for its delightful horse-shoe-shaped harbor and nearby Castle. The old horse shoe shaped harbor is bordered by what used to be Carob warehouses but are now cafes, restaurants and bars. Fishing boats, colorful yachts and excursion boats are moored in this pretty spot and to the East of the harbor, is the Kyrenia Castle, a truly magnificent edifice built by the Byzantine in the 9th century to ward off Arabs invaders. This fortress was further enhanced by the Lusignans in 1208 and then by the Venetians at the beginning of the 16th century and is one of the most imposing sites in the Mediterranean. Worth seeing is the Shipwreck museum within the castle which houses a small merchant vessel, raised from the sea in 1868/9 and thought to have sunk around 306 BC. The wreck is preserved and housed in a special air-conditioned display, here you can see the wine and oil amphorae and famous Cyprus almonds which the ship was carrying. The harbor is particularly picturesque at night where you can stroll in the cool of the evening or sip a popular local "brandy sour" as the sunsets. A must is a visit to Bellapais and the great Gothic Abbey, considered to be the finest of all monuments of the Lusignan dynasty built most probably in 1191. Also see St. Hillarion Castle, said to have been built late in the eleventh century as a fortification and a link in the chain of four castles with Kyrenia, Buffavento and Kantara.

Places to Visit

Girne Castle
Nobody has yet been able to establish the exact date of the construction of the castle. As a result of excavations at the site, it is thought that the original castle was built in the 9th Century AD by the Byzantine to defend Girne against Arab raids. Latter additions were made by the Lusignags and the castle was further strengthened by the Venetians. An interesting fact about the castle is that in all its history the castle was never taken by assault.

Shipwreck Museum (situated in Girne Castle)
Exceptionally interesting remains of a 4th Century BC ship salvaged off Kyrenia. Items of its cargo are also housed in the shipwreck museum which was opened in 1976. They include numerous amphora which contained almonds and some very interesting grain mills

St. Hilarion
Named after a holy man who lived there, according to a local legend, the last years of his life and was buried there in the 8th AD. A church was founded on his grave and later a monastery built around it. In the l0th Century a castle was built around this area and since then belonged to the early warning system the Byzantine ruler founded on the Five Finger Mountain area. The Lusignan rulers used it during the middle age as a summer residence. When the Venetians took over after 300 years of Lusignans ruler over Cyprus, they had no need for these mountain castles anymore and the castle was torn apart.

Bellapais
The Abbey was founded as an Augustinian Monastery in the reign of Hugh (1324-1358). A charming site was chosen for its location, on one of the spurs of the Kyrenia mountains. It has also been called the Abbey de la Paix (the Abbey of Peace), and the Abbey Blanche, because of white habits worn by monks. Surrounded by foliage on all sides, it has most spectacular views over land and sea.

Buffavento
Above the village of Catalkoy, a few km from the east of Kyrenia with 954 m above sea level, the highest of the three former Byzantine castle of the Five Finger Mountains. The most destroyed, the most difficult to reach and the one almost not explored. Built in the l0th Century during the Byzantine period, used in the middle age by the Lusignans and destroyed later in the l5th by the Venetians. During this time it was a prison, escape castle and hideaway. It was originally built in the l0th Century, and it belonged to a warning system because of the Arab invasion of Cyprus.

Antiphonitis
This monastery lays in a small valley in the Besparmak (Five Fingers Mountains). The church is an example of a Byzantine eight-coluznns church. Beautiful wall and ceiling frescos dating to the l5th century can be admired.

Karaman
Karaman village which has lovingly been restored and transformed mostly by Europeans into a village of character and relaxed charm, is situated a couple of miles west of Girne. Karaman village, with its charming cottages with views over the wooded hills to the shimmering Mediterranean, is a favorite place by tourists.

Vounos
Necropole of the early Bronze Age. In these graves, all built towards the north, excavations brought to light numerous archaeological treasures of the religious and daily life of that time.

M A G U S A   ( F A M A G U S T A )  

IS one of the most important , greatly fortified ports on the shores in the Mediterranean. To the north of Famagusta lie the fabulous ruins of Salamis . This one great city is believed to have been founded in the 11th century BC and after the influences of the many conquering nations notably the Romans the city was finally abandoned in 648AD, following the combined catastrophes of earthquake and raids by Arab pirates when the population moved to Famagusta. The spectacular ruins give a fascinating insight into long lost civilizations and include a magnificent amphitheater Roman baths a gymnasium and royal tombs. The mosaics are particularly beautiful . Just inland from Famagusta are the church and monastery dedicated to St.Barnabas , the founder or the apostolic church on Cyprus in 45AD. Barnabas , a Cypriot from Salamis visited the islandaccompanied by St Paul and St Mark and was later martyred in Salamis in 52AD The church of St Barnabas is preserved exactly as it was since abandoned in 1976 . Among the massively fortified places on the shores of the Mediterranean, Famagusta takes a high place. It has always been a stepping between the Near East and Europe. Famagusta's real growth took place during the Lusignan reign, when the diverse races of the Near East settled in the town, and with their cultures and wealth gave a new impetus to the residents of Famagusta. There is a wonderful collection of 18th century icons and the monastery cloisters now houses an archeological museum.
Famagusta, also hosts the Eastern Mediterranean University which is one of the best universities in the region.

Places to visit

St. Barnabas
St. Barnabas was born in a Jewish family and educated in Jerusalem. But when he returned to Salamis he propagated Christianity and because of this he was murdered and buried under a carob tree. With him was buried a copy of St. Matthew's gospel which he had always carried with him. 432 years later, his grave was opened by order of Bishop Anticituis, and the Gospel was still lying on his chest. His body was handed over to Emperor zeno, and in return the Church of Cyprus was granted its independence, and the monastery was built where St. Barnabas body had been found in 477 AD. Later it was rebuilt by Archbishop Philotheos, in 1756 as it stands today.

Salamis Ruins
It is believed that the ancient city of Salamis was founded by Teucer on his return from the Trojan War. During the Roman rule, Salamis was the greatest commercial center of the Emporium in the East. In the 4th Century AD it was destroyed by earthquake, but was rebuilt and renamed Costantia by the Emperor Costantin. In 648 it was destroyed by Arab invaders and since then it has not been rebuilt. Salamis, the ancient city which lies beside the longest and one of the most beautiful of Cyprus's sandy beaches, is found in an area which is partly forested. The Roman amphitheater, the largest in Cyprus, can be visited with its Gymnasium, Baths and Market place.

Othello's Tower
The impression made by the formidable walls of this edifice is over- powering to even the most casual visitor. It was built by the Lusignans and further enlarged by the Venetians. The impression which is made by Famagusta harbor is reinforced by great citadel, otherwise known as Othello's Tower, that thrills the visitors by its association with one of William Shakespeare's best known plays. It contains a splendid l4th century Gothic Hall.

Venetian Palace and The Namik Kemal Prison
After its destruction in 1571, the Venetians' Palace was used during the Ottoman Empire as a prison, and among the prisoners was Namik Kemal, the National poet of the Ottoman Empire, who was held there between 1873 and 1876, after having been exiled to Cyprus by the Sultan.

Royal Tomb
In the construction of the Royal tombs huge limestone blocks and clay were used. Excavations revealed the architecture of the tombs, and significant remains were found which showed the burial customs of Mycenaean times. During the 1964 excavations horse skeletons complete with their harness, chariots and pottery were discovered. They had been interred, and the horses slain, as a mark of respect to the dead man.

Enkomi
One of the first settlements in the east of Cyprus. Important for the production and export of copper during the Bronze Age. Finally destroyed at 1200 BC. Most of the population probably settled down on the coast where the first Greek settlers established the Kingdom of Salamis.

L E F K O S A   ( N I C O S I A )  

LEFKOSA is the commercial and political capital of Northern Cyprus, and lies in the central plain of the island. It is not a large city with a population of around 40,000 which is more than doubled during the day by commuters. The Venetian wall surrounding the old town creates an intruding atmosphere when contrasted with other more modern buildings. Northern Lefkosa strikes the visitor as an ad hoc mixture of old and new, ancient and modern. There is the covered market or Bandabuliya in which the sellers and produce on offer never seam to change. It stands next to the Latin Cathedral in which the kings of Cyprus used to be crowned. Dotted around the walled city are the other places to visit and buildings which have been restored to their former glory, notably the Buyuk Han, a caravansary. The physical divid between the two major ethnic communities on the island is also clearly visible in this part of town. Lefkosa offers a number of good restaurants and cafes in the central area and also a wide selection of jewelers, boutiques and shops selling just about anything from bathroom fittings to musical instruments. Despite being the capital city Lefkosa still bears the same laid-back character as the rest of Northern Cyprus, only in an urban setting. The first known settlements in the area appeared in the early and middle Bronze Age. It is known that a city(at the time called Ledra)existed in the 7th century B.C. which paid tribute to the Assyrians. Much later in the 3rd century B.C. the city of Levkos was founded by Soter 1.son of Ptolemy. The name Nicosia appeared towards the end of the 12th century A.D. when the city was owned and run by the Knights Templar. It is said that under the Frankish rule of that time, Nicosia flourished into a beautiful city of parks, palaces, squares and some 250 churches. During the Venetian rule(1489-1570)the size of the city was deliberately reduced. The Venetians, fearing an Ottoman invasion strengthened the city walls and laid waste to all the buildings outside the fortifications in order to have a clear view of any approaching invader. The unfortunate result was that much that remained as a reminder of the Frankish presence in Lefkosa had been lost. In 1570 despite the great efforts of the Venetians, the Ottomans under Selim ll. took Nicosia. During over 300 years of Ottoman rule catholic churches were converted into mosques. For over 400 years north Lefkosa has been predominantly Turkish so there is an abundance of Ottoman architecture which can still be appreciated today. When the British took over the administration of the island in 1889 Lefkosa kept its status as the islands capital and the British government buildings of the central area of northern lefkosa still stand as memorials to Lefkosa`s colonial past.

Places To Visit

Kyrenia Gate
This is the entrance to the walled city from Kyrenia. The fortified walls were built by the Venetians to keep out the eventually successful Ottoman invaders. Today roads built by the British run through the gate.

Selemiye Mosque (St. Sofia Cathedral)
This is an outstanding example of Gothic architecture. Building began in 1209 but the Cathedral was not officially consecrated until 1326. It contains all the hallmarks of the great French cathedrals of the time. In 1570 following the Ottoman conquest of the city, it was converted into a mosque which had for us the fortunate consequence of ensuring its preservation and upkeep, although many overtly Christian artifacts and decoration were removed.

The Great Inn
This two-storeyed equivalent of a motel was built in 1572 by Muzzafer Pasha, the first Ottoman Governor-general of Cyprus. It has 68 rooms in the familiar rectangular form and there is a small mosque in the middle of the central courtyard. This building is a typical example of the inner city commercial inns to be found in Anatolia.

The Turkish Baths
The Buyuk Hamam or Turkish bath was built on the ruins of the Church of St. George of the Latins. Of the church, only this arch remains of the bath itself is a classical Ottoman Turkish building. The road surface has gradually risen over the centuries and is now some 2 meters above original level.

Venetian Column
In the middle of the Atatürk square stands a twenty-foot high granitic column erected by the Venetians as a symbol of their rule. It was torn down during the Turkish conquest, but re-erected by the British early this Century. Capping the column is a copper globe which replaces the original Lion of St. Mark, which has been lost.

Arabahmet Mosque
This Mosque was built by the Ottoman Turks in 1845 and boasts a l6th Century style dome. In the courtyard of the mosque is a beautiful fountain for ablutions before prayers.

Gamblers Inn
Motel for traveling merchants. Built in the 17th Century during Ottoman rule over Cyprus, built in style of Karavanserei.

The Dervish Pasha's Mansion
This two-storeyed mansion is situated within the city walls of Nicosia in the Arabahmet quarter, which is rich in buildings of architectural and historical interest. It was built in the early l9th Century by Dervish Pasha and it is used as the Ethnographic Museum.

The Stonework Museum Lapidary Museum
About 50 yards east of the Selimiye Mosque is to be found the Stonework Museum, displayed in a l5th Century house built in the Venetian style. There are many fine examples of different kinds of stonework dating from the Middle Ages. The most remarkable to be seen are the tombs of the Dampierre family and the 13th Century stone of Adana from Antioch.

G U Z E L Y U R T  ( M O R P H O U )  

IS one of the richest agricultural areas in Cyprus, famous particularly for the Citrus Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit and strawberries from the area which thrive in its fertile red soil. Guzelyurt is an ideal picnic spot for those who want to escape from the noise and rush of the city life and spend the day in the peace and quiet of natural surroundings. In spring the light breezes scatter the white orange blossoms from which you can smell the fragrance around the town, while in other seasons the golden oranges and lemons shine on the trees. A large proportion of the citrus fruits are exported, and the remaining are made into fruit juice and canned for local consumption and export.

Places To Visit

St. Mamas
Visit the former Monastery of St. Mamas, originally Byzantine with Gothic establishments. Some of the carvings date from c. 1500. The Ruins of Soli (600 BC) and the Palace of Vouni, from the 5th century BC, are a must for archeologists or those interested in antiquities. St. Mamas Monastery is a l8th Century monastery. This Monastery and the museum are located in Guzelyurt (Morphou). According to the legend, St. Mamas stubbornly refused to pay his taxes and the authorities eventually sent troops to fetch and punish him. But on the way to the capital, Mamas noticed a lion about to fall upon a lamb. He took up the lamb in his arms and rode into the capital on the lion's back. The Byzantine governor was so impressed by what he had seen that he released St. Mamas from his dues. Since then St. Mamas has been known as the patron saint of tax avoiders.

Vouni Palace
Vouni Palace is 9 km west of Gemikonagi and 250 m above sea level, on a cliff top. Its origins are not known with certainty, but it is thought to have been built during the Persian occupation in the 5th Century BC. The Palace was burnt down by a fire in 330 BC. At a later date its foundations were destroyed by the Soli inhabitants.

Soli Ruins
Soli was a great city, founded in the 6 th Century BC. It was at its most importance during the Roman occupation of Cyprus, and was destroyed during the Arab invasion in the 7th Century. A Swedish Archaeological Expedition excavated the Roman amphitheater in 1930 and an early Christian Basilica and mosaics came to light during the later work by Canadian teams. Much work remains to be done over the huge site.

Piri Osman Pasha
Mosque of Piri Osman Pasha This Mosque with its typical minaret is pleasantly situated amongst shady trees in Lefke.